If you want to sew a velvet cloak that swishes, drapes, and survives more than one Halloween, skip the costume satin aisle. Upholstery velvet has body, a dense pile that catches light like a theater curtain, and a build meant to outlast a sofa. That means the cloak you make this fall can walk a Renaissance fair next summer and show up at a cosplay convention after that. Here's how to pick the right fabric, figure out yardage, and sew a lined, hooded circle cloak without ending up with sore shoulders.
What Is the Best Upholstery Fabric for a Velvet Cloak?
The best choice is the lightest-weight polyester or poly-blend upholstery velvet you can find, roughly 9 to 12 ounces per linear yard, with a soft, drapey hand. Heavier velvet looks gorgeous on the bolt and feels like wearing a rug.
Do a quick bend test. Drape a corner over your forearm. It should fold into soft curves, not stand up like cardboard. Skip anything with a stiff, thick backing, because that backing is what makes a cloak hang like a tent instead of flowing.
Durability is the good news. Heavy-duty upholstery is generally rated at 15,000 or more double rubs on the Wyzenbeek abrasion test, and a cloak sees a tiny fraction of the wear a sofa does. Double rub count measures abrasion resistance, not weight, so a high-rated velvet can still be a light one. Browse our full range of velvet upholstery fabrics and order a few swatches before you commit to six yards.
Also, honestly, chenille is criminally underrated for cloaks. It has a soft, slightly nubby texture that hides wrinkles and drapes beautifully, and it's a little more forgiving to sew than velvet. If you want a more rustic, woodland look, check out our chenille upholstery fabrics.
Photo by Güner Deliağa Şahiner on Unsplash
How Much Velvet Do You Need for a Hooded Cloak?
For a full-circle cloak cut from 54-inch-wide fabric, multiply your finished length plus 4 inches by 4, divide by 36, then add half a yard for the hood. Most upholstery velvet is 54 inches wide, so that rule works for almost everything you'll find.
To get your length, measure from the base of your neck to where you want the hem. Ankle-length is usually your height minus about 13 inches. Here's what that looks like in practice:
- Mid-calf length (about 36 inches): around 5 yards of velvet
- Ankle length, under 5'3": around 6.5 yards
- Ankle length, 5'4" to 5'8": around 7 yards
- Ankle length, 5'9" to 6'2": around 8 yards, since the pieces need an extra seam
Buy the same amount of lining fabric. Choose lightweight satin or charmeuse for the lining, not a second heavy fabric. Here's the math that explains why: a floor-length cloak in 10-ounce velvet already weighs over 4 pounds before lining. If that sounds like a lot, go mid-calf. You'll save fabric, money, and your neck.
Photo by J Williams on Unsplash
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Make your pattern. Fold a large sheet of paper or old bedsheet into quarters. From the folded corner, mark a 4-inch radius for the neckline. Then mark your hem radius, which is your cloak length plus 4 inches. Cut both curves, and you've got a quarter-circle pattern. Open it up, and you've got a full circle with a neck hole. Cut a slit straight down the center front.
- Check pile direction, then cut. Run your hand over the velvet. When it feels smooth, you're stroking with the pile (pile down, which looks lighter and shinier). When it feels rough, you're stroking against it (pile up, which looks deeper and richer). Pick one and cut every piece the same way. Dark shades like black velvet upholstery fabric show mismatched pile the most. Cut in a single layer, chalk on the wrong side, and use sharp shears or a rotary cutter. If your fabric isn't wide enough, hide a seam at center back.
- Sew the seams the right way. Velvet creeps and shifts, so use a walking foot, a fresh 90/14 or 100/16 needle, and a stitch length around 3 mm. Hold pieces together with clips, not pins, which can leave marks. Press seams open with steam over a towel and never press the pile directly. Finish every raw edge with a zigzag or serger stitch, because upholstery velvet frays fast.
- Build the hood. Cut two hood pieces about 13 inches wide and 22 inches tall, with a curved top back corner. Sew them together along the top and back edge. Repeat with lining fabric. Measure your neckline so the hood's bottom edge matches it, easing as needed.
- Join the hood lining. Place the shell hood and lining hood right sides together and stitch along the face opening. Turn the lining inside, and the hood is lined. Then sew the shell hood to the cloak neckline. Fold the lining over and hand-stitch it down along the neckline seam so it hides the raw edges.
- Line the body. Cut an identical circle from your lining. Place it right sides together with the velvet and sew the center front edges, leaving the hem open. Turn it right side out and press gently from the lining side.
- Let it hang, then hem. A circle cloak has bias edges that stretch, so hang it on a dress form or hanger for 24 hours before you hem. Trim the hem even. Hem the velvet with a hand blind stitch or catch stitch, and hem the lining about an inch shorter so it never peeks out.
- Add a closure that won't tear out. A closure sewn through one layer of pile will rip out. Stitch a 3-inch square of twill tape or heavy interfacing behind the closure point first. For the sturdiest option, sandwich ribbon or cord ties into the center front seam before you turn the cloak (step 6) and bar-tack them back and forth. A metal cloak clasp works too if you sew it through the reinforcement patch with doubled heavy thread.
Ready to pick your fabric? Deep jewel tones are everywhere this fall, and green velvet upholstery fabric makes a stunning forest or elven cloak. Here are a few options worth a look.
Shop Velvet Upholstery Fabrics
How Do You Clean and Store a Velvet Cloak?
Spot clean with a barely damp cloth, or take it to a dry cleaner, and always store the cloak hanging on a wide padded hanger. Folding creates stubborn creases in the pile.
Check your fabric's cleaning code before you try anything. Upholstery fabrics use four: W means water-based cleaners, S means solvent only, WS means either works, and X means vacuum or brush only. If you don't know the code or you've used a satin lining, dry cleaning is the safest route. Tell your cleaner not to press the pile flat.
For storage, stuff the hood loosely with tissue so it keeps its shape, and use a breathable garment bag. Plastic traps moisture. Between wears, a steamer held a few inches from the wrong side revives crushed pile, and a soft clothes brush lifts it back into place.
Tips for a Better Velvet Cloak
- Cut a test circle in muslin first. Check the neckline fit and length before you slice into expensive velvet.
- Baste before you sew. A line of hand basting stops the layers from creeping.
- Go mid-calf if weight worries you. It cuts yardage by about a quarter and is much easier to wear for long hours at a fair or con.
- Use a sharp needle. A dull one snags the pile and leaves puckered seams.
- Pick a forgiving color for your first try. Medium-dark shades hide mistakes better than red velvet upholstery fabric, which shows every crush mark.
- Add a hidden inside pocket. Your phone and tickets will thank you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can you make a cloak from upholstery velvet?
Yes. Upholstery velvet makes an excellent cloak because it has weight, drape, and a dense pile, and it's rated to handle far more abrasion than any costume will give it. Choose a lightweight option, about 9 to 12 ounces per linear yard, so the finished cloak isn't uncomfortable to wear.
Q: How much fabric do you need for a full-circle velvet cloak?
A mid-calf cloak needs around 5 yards of 54-inch velvet, and an ankle-length cloak needs about 6.5 to 8 yards depending on your height. Both include half a yard for the hood. Buy the same amount of lining fabric.
Q: How do you keep velvet from fraying when you sew a cloak?
Finish every raw edge right after cutting with a zigzag stitch or a serger. Seams hidden under a lining can be zigzagged, and exposed edges like the hem should be turned and hand-stitched. Cutting with sharp shears also reduces shedding.
